ESSIUS A/W ´17
Each season, the young designer brand ESSIUS presents a high-end menswear collection around a theme with strong ties to the helvetic imagery and it´s universe. Its name is a palindrome of it’s homecountry, SUISSE – Switzerland, in French, and as such, its connection is never literal nor expected. ESSIUS purposely chooses themes which are lesser-known facets of the Swiss heritage, as they did in the past when centering their offerings – such as using red thread to signify the dadaist art movement or the work of the iconic architect Le Corbusier.
There is nothing literal in these examples; hidden messages given in the lining of the items, an abstract representation of a mountain horizon or a colour palette and collar structure reminiscent of Le Corbusier’s exquisite work covers all of his inspirations – from architecture to furniture sympathetically and succinctly.
For Fall-Winter 2017-18, co-founder and artisitic director Youn Chong Bak decided to use as a general theme to the collection as ´the geometric shapes of coniferous trees´, whose minimal draft by Le Corbusier once again has served as a canvas to the prints of the collection. These exclusive prints will be available in a wide range of colours – ranging from burgundy, beige to pine green; these are visible on a wide range of key items such as the sweatshirts, shirts, silk scarves and bomber jackets.
The more tailored offerings of the collection – ranging from suits, smoking and coats – are perfect examples of ESSIUS’ high-precision craft, which once again links the brand back to Switzerland. No other country can claim being a better representation of precision and preciseness, especially through its worldwide famous clock-making skills, which can be seen on the runway through the seamless integration of OMEGA watches to the models’ silhouettes.
¨ Among the strongest pieces of the Fall-Winter 17-18 one must note the outerwear product, perfectly adapted to the Swiss climate. Key statement pieces include a burgundy fur overcoat and various jackets and long coats in reversed sheepskin, letting the white wool take the centre stage.¨ – Charles Daniel McDonald
Precision was not only a key attribute of the garments’ structure, it was also a common denominator of the very cut which was applied to each panel when constructing the items. An example of this expert meticulousness is for example the cut applied to most bomber jackets and hunter-inspired outerwear vests on the higher back; they are constructed in a Y-shape, symbolically representing the prickles of the pine trees one can see on the higher plateaus of the Swiss landscape. Similarly, the shirts’ sleeves are finished by an elaborate tieback-system allowing men to wear their watches without taking the risk of their shirts covering their praised timepieces.
All fabrics used are noble, rich and executed with great care and thoroughness. Youn Chong Bak goes to great efforts to guarantee an unforgettable first impression of the garments when touching them. It’s not just cashmere nor wool – its double cashmere and double wool and it´s all about falling in love at first touch.
The colour palette is purposely linked to Switzerland’s most dominant mountain landscape hues; it goes from pine to grass green, but also incorporates all the possible shades of high altitude moss, from mustard yellow to burgundy. On the other hand, the darker colours are a celebration of the country’s unique geology and mineral qualities, from granite grey to black quartz respectively.
“This collection is as always a celebration of Switzerland” adds Adel Najah, co-founder and CEO of ESSIUS. “It’s a homage to what made it’s worldwide reputation, avoiding by all means, the usual cliché. Pine woods were indeed the original inspiration behind this collection; but we went to great lengths not to apply it too literally. The spirit is there but it stays abstract, allowing ESSIUS to keep an element of classicism while showcasing originality.”
Article: Charles Daniel McDonald