DRIES VAN NOTEN S/S´24
“Dries Van Noten articulated his design philosophy with elegance and poise during his Spring 2024 collection, wherein his mission was to infuse novelty into the familiar, employing his signature eclectic sensibility to redefine a remarkable array of sporty daywear. In his own words, “We delved deep into materials that are inherently conventional—chino, denim, rugby stripes, shirt stripes—yet we approached them from unconventional angles, bending and reshaping them to elevate their essence.” Much like Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello and several other notable designers showcased during the initial days of Paris Fashion Week, Van Noten opted for a casual, utilitarian direction, steering away from the recent trends dominated by florals-on-florals and intricate embroidery. Instead, he championed separates that are both fashionable and suitable for everyday wear.
Amidst a backdrop of the ongoing “Mode et Sport” fashion exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and Paris’ preparations for the 2024 Olympics, Van Noten drew inspiration from sports like rugby, cricket, and tennis, as well as 1920s knit bathing attire. However, he chuckled at the notion of outfitting the Belgian national team. He confessed, “No, there’s a certain charm in focusing on daywear,” reflecting on his recent sojourn to the Amalfi coast. Van Noten’s casual wear would effortlessly blend with the coastal ambiance, as he deftly applied his impeccable tailoring to unassuming materials. Notably, he achieved the feat of making a denim suit exude style, pairing a blazer boasting his signature pagoda shoulders with Bermuda shorts.
The quintessential Van Noten interplay between masculine and feminine proportions found its expression in club jackets and trousers adorned with vibrant binding, available in both shrunken and oversized iterations. The runway also featured endearing deconstructed tennis sweaters. Elegance emerged through shirt-stripe dresses, masterfully contoured at the waist, and shirt-stripe bra tops that juxtaposed classic aesthetics with a touch of sensuality. Rugby elements underwent a metamorphosis, evolving into rugby-stripe drawstring pants and a chic rugby shirt dress, left unbuttoned to reveal a delicate silk micro-sequin skirt. Sport lacing served as a defining detail, accentuating the waist in a striking khaki shirt dress layered over navy pants, and shaping chino cargo skirts and rugby shirts.
´Celebrating the fusion of everyday elegance and authentic self-expression, Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2024 collection effortlessly embodies the essence of style liberation.´ – Charles Daniel McDonald
Crochet bikini tops peeked from beneath oversized men’s shirts and trench coats, while Van Noten introduced a twist to utility wear with boxy military jackets and luxurious cargo pants in a rich burgundy hue. Succumbing to the prevailing trend of the season, short shorts in silk sateen also made an appearance. Prints and embellishments were utilised sparingly, with an emphasis on bi-colour patterns adorned with subtle swirls or bird motifs. Airy silk tanks and skirts featured delicate sequin embellishments, and silver satin jackets were meticulously adorned with seed pearls. Pearls also graced the iconic khaki mackintosh coat.
Accessories, on the other hand, embraced opulence, as Van Noten’s signature curved Virgo heels donned intricate graphic patterns, embellishments, and fringe, while distorted jewels dangled elegantly from fingers and wrists. As the show concluded, two discerning buyers engaged in a spirited debate, ultimately opting to acquire the collection as complete looks and separates, a decision that would undoubtedly please Van Noten. In his own words, “I genuinely desire women to express their style freely and authentically.” Van Noten’s collection for Spring 2024 embodies this ethos, effortlessly combining ease with allure.”
Article: Charles Daniel McDonald
Photography: Dries Van Noten / Paris Fashion Week