ISSEY MIYAKE MAN (A/W 16)
Several days ago, Issey Miyake Men showcased its autumn/winter´16 collections at the landmark Palais de Tokyo as part of the celebrations for Paris Fashion Week – Men´s Collections. Taking inspiration from the primal and nomadic way of life, Miyake drew upon these human instincts to identify a new sense of elegance and comfort in a relaxed sophistication. This progressive tri-component collection expressed the desire of contemporary man to return to the primative feeling of life by using rough materials combined with refined fibres, dusty colours touched with vivid ones and warm clothes with sporty silhouettes and simple cheerful knits. If this collection had one message, it was to encourage the modern contemporary man to return to an elemental way of life albeit in a very stylish way.
¨This collection puts the Issey Miyake man in the wilderness. A discernment into the nomadic way of life and the constant struggle with nature’s elements of wind, snow, ice and rain. The coalition of these elements force man to learn to rely on his natural instincts to survive in a harsh environment ¨ – Issey Miyake
Voluminous full-length coats and pullovers in bordeaux and turquoise are created from an original fabric featuring a mixture of a newly-developed horse hair thread and wool. These are followed by numerous knitwear items with a variety of rich textures, including mohair-blend wool sweaters featuring abstract patterns in orange, grey and blue, and also one-piece knit dresses. The design for these relaxed and roomy knits was inspired by the simple and heart-warming nomadic lifestyles of Mongolia.
The style gradually changes into a sharp, urban, sporty look. Thermographic equine photos by photographer Kenji Hirasawa are digitally printed on ponte jersey and cotton broadcloth shirts, Polyester taffeta overcoats and cycling parkas, featuring high-performance padding embroidered with colourful horseshoe patterns, are worn with tightly-fitted knit-pants in a dynamic, sporty style.
The final section is a series of urban workwear looks. Signature woven items appear in rapid succession: Cotton polyester blousons and items in cut jacquard, featuring horseshoes interpreted in abstract forms; a jacket and duster in a warm dust-patterned print; pleats crafted in corduroy from the traditional tornado tie-dyed technique; birds eye jackets and separates using wrinkle-free, form-stabilizing fabric. All made these items were made from functional, lightweight, easy-care fabrics that are washable and non-iron. The show closed on a lilting note featuring ultra-lightweight suits developed with a focus on materials and construction.
Article: Charles Daniel McDonald
Photography: Issey Miyake / Paris Fashion Week