LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W 19
What I was very struck by in London is how many wonderful, young designers that have been here; and how engaged they seem to be with topics such as sustainability or race. Obviously since we´re here in London with Brexit and as a result, you feel that their collections and how they´re showing their collections are truly informed, interesting and very aware.
It´s fascinating to go around London and to see so many young activists demonstrating. They´re just saying that this is our future; we believe in this and you need to take notice. I think that the voices of the younger generation of designers are saying exactly that. I´ve also been struck in London by how many talented young female designers are working in a very vibrant way. We have Mary Katranzou, Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard and obviously Grace Wales Bonner. It´s refreshing to see a young designer have a voice for race and inclusivity and diversity such as Grace Wales Bonner does.
I´m so happy that Victoria Beckham seems to be staying in London and she´s obviously such an important voice for fashion and I loved her show. I thought that it was very confident, very sure, very grown-up and sexy and cinematic with its beautiful checks and clean tailoring. I personally think that one of the female designers, such as Sarah Burton, working with McQueen or Stella McCartney under her own label, should consider showing in London.
¨I think that what simply doesn´t work in fashion is something that is bland and boring and is trying to pre-please everyone. It is better to take a risk and be fearless; fall down and pick yourself back up, than to be nothing.¨ – Charles Daniel McDonald
I thought that Riccardo Tisci´s second collection now for Burberry was a big step forward. It was more confident and you understood the direction that he was now taking at Burberry. There were wonderful things that had the famous Burberry check and garments that were covered in the Union Jack. Then, a much more adult, gown-up side of Burberry where he´s really looking at tailoring and luxuriously beautiful fabrics.
There was a lot of volume on the New York runways and we´re seeing it also here in London. There are volume in sleeves, as we just saw at J.W. Anderson with his bulks in tiered skirts and storied dresses like at Simone Rocha. I do think that this influence is growing and that there are wonderful details like the big bell sleeve, which is much more achievable for most women.
I believe that this is very feminine and I love it when you see beautiful colour palettes such as Rocksanda presented. It had an extraordinary mix of colours and I loved all the floral prints that Erdem had; so it´s drama and it´s degrees of drama depending on both your height and your character. Looking forward, I’m sure that this season of volume with Richard Quinn and his strong colour and print will be a winner as he is a designer that will not disappoint. I hear that possibly Christopher Kane also is going in a more soigne, sophisticated and sexy direction.
I think that this idea of decoration is so strong right now; the hair and some amazing boots everywhere, the beautiful leopard and zebra boots and also black boots at J.W. Anderson. It´s almost like sophisticated, hidden touches and these are what´s catching my eye. I think what simply doesn´t work is something that´s bland and boring and is trying to pre-please everyone. It is better to take a risk and be fearless; fall down and pick yourself back up, than to be nothing.
Article: Charles Daniel McDonald
Images: Each Prospective Fashion House