Withn the past decade, Copenhagen has emerged as a fashion powerhouse, birthing influential brands like Ganni and Cecilie Bahnsen that have reshaped our understanding of Scandinavian style. Evolving beyond the realm of polished minimalism, the streets of the Danish capital have become a canvas for the expression of puff-sleeved dresses and the contagious allure of dopamine dressing. This vibrant fashion scene reflects a dynamic transformation, showcasing the city’s ability to redefine and elevate the global fashion narrative.
In a testament to the rich pool of design talent in the Nordics, Copenhagen has experienced a recent shift in vibes. The city is placing renewed emphasis on nurturing emerging stars, with a spotlight on notable names such as streetwear brand (Di)vision, knitwear maestro A Roege Hove, and the self-taught visionary Nicklas Skovgaard. Concurrently, there is a growing commitment to sustainability, marked by Copenhagen Fashion Week’s implementation of 18 minimum standards for all brands starting in January 2023. This dual focus on talent and sustainability underscores Copenhagen’s pivotal role in shaping the future of the global fashion landscape.
As influential brands like Ganni divert from traditional showcases, making room for innovative approaches like the “Future, Talent, Fabrics” exhibition, the stage is set for a new wave of talent to captivate the spotlight. Copenhagen Fashion Week’s autumn/winter 2024 edition promises to be a breeding ground for emerging stars. Keep an eye on these exciting names that are poised to redefine the narrative and shape the future of Nordic fashion.
After a standout spring/summer 2024 debut that left a lasting impression, Nicklas Skovgaard takes the spotlight again as he kicks off Copenhagen Fashion Week on Monday. The Danish designer, known for his theatrical flair, seamlessly blends handwoven and found materials to create unique pieces that have graced the red carpet. Notably, Alexa Chung donned a custom ensemble – a feathered crop top, micro shorts, and matching bonnet – at Vogue World: London, solidifying Skovgaard’s status as a rising star in the fashion realm. All eyes eagerly await his sophomore presentation, anticipating another round of innovative and captivating designs.
Renowned for its distinctive take on Scandi minimalism in menswear since its inception in 2015, cult label Mfpen made waves last year by venturing into womenswear. Returning to the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule this season, the brand promises to captivate with its signature utilitarian approach, delivering slouchy tailoring and impeccably cut knitwear. Notably, Mfpen consciously crafts its pieces using surplus materials, contributing to a sustainable and mindful fashion ethos. Prepare to elevate your autumn/winter wishlists with the alluring blend of functionality and style that Mfpen brings to its inaugural womenswear collection.
Embrace the avant-garde as Alectra Rothschild, a talent cultivated at Mugler, Iris van Herpen, and Alexander McQueen, graces Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NewTalent programme with her much-anticipated runway debut. A graduate of the Royal Danish Academy, Rothschild has already garnered attention from luminaries like Michèle Lamy. Known for her flamboyant, clubwear-inspired creations, her pieces, crafted from upcycled deadstock, promise a spectacle that transcends traditional boundaries. Get ready to experience a bold and unconventional fusion of style and sustainability as Alectra Rothschild introduces her disruptive vision to the global fashion stage.
London-based creative duo Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard, distinguished finalists for prestigious awards such as Zalando’s Visionary Award, LVMH Prize, and Woolmark Prize in 2023, are set to captivate Copenhagen once again. Following their debut show in August, the talented pair is back for the autumn/winter season, promising a nighttime presentation that blends fashion with artistry. Expect a captivating performance by rising Danish artist Esben Weile Kjæer, perfectly complementing Russo and Guilmard’s signature rave-infused designs. Embrace the fusion of fashion and nightlife as this dynamic duo continues to redefine the boundaries of contemporary style.
Renowned for his contributions to esteemed fashion houses like Dior, Raf Simons, Lanvin, and Balmain, Kristofer Kongshaug‘s eponymous label, Forza Collective, founded in 2022, has swiftly risen to prominence in Scandinavian fashion circles. As a finalist for the 2023 Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize, Kongshaug’s avant-garde approach to minimalist eveningwear, infused with a sustainable twist through recycled nylon, is poised to make a striking statement on the Copenhagen Fashion Week runway. Stay tuned as Forza Collective continues to redefine elegance with a commitment to environmental responsibility.
Though not formally gracing the Copenhagen Fashion Week lineup, the off-schedule presentation by Solitude Studios promises to be a captivating spectacle. Established in 2018 by the creative minds of Jonas Sayed Gammal Bruun and Emil Wæde Frederiksen, the brand pioneers eco-conscious fashion by utilising leftover textiles and natural dyes in its creations. From intricate cobweb knits to their iconic “seaweed” bag, Solitude Studios demonstrates an unwavering commitment to sustainable practices, proving that style and environmental consciousness can seamlessly coexist. Keep a vigilant eye for this off-schedule gem, as it is sure to showcase a harmonious blend of creativity and responsible fashion.
Article: Charles Daniel McDonald
Photography: Copehnhagen Fashion Week / Each Respective Designer