A colourless day in Venice saw the city turned into ‘Gethsemane‘, a guise which would act as the inspiration for Rick Owens latest Fall/Winter ’21 menswear show. Smoke machines infiltrated the course of the models as they purposely meandered down the steps of an imposing church. This was one time where a season was befitting of the location – as the collection’s namesake took inspiration from the garden Jesus sought sanctuary in, before his crucifixion. “A place of uneasy repose and disquiet before a final reckoning, We’re all living in a tense period in history waiting for a resolution, be it catastrophic or rational, in a suspense that feels almost biblical in its drama — primitive and profane,” Owens explained.
The latest collection features a variety of layers – ranging from oversized leather vests, jackets and slouch style sweaters (with a full range of openings for the arms and neck), reinforcing again the importance of versatility in his design. Standout pieces within the collection have to be the classic puffer coats / jackets which are updated with exaggerated lines, giving a new shape to their silhouettes. This Fall/Winter ’21 collection sees Owens unveil severe looking, masculine leathers in purple and green that almost feel feminine within their aesthetic rationale.
“A place of uneasy repose and disquiet before a final reckoning, We’re all living in a tense period in history waiting for a resolution, be it catastrophic or rational, in a suspense that feels almost biblical in its drama — primitive and profane.” – Rik Owens
One of the standout points of Owen’s collection was the somewhat revamped Converse trainers, which now sport a feature square toe – think on this of the traditional model’s more avant-garde, sinful sibling. Over the years, Owens has been noted for his reluctance in collaborations – however this time, he believed the relationship to be a more meaningful, if not highly stylised one.
Having recently identified his designs as ‘grotesque’, the Gothic grunge designer likes to think upon this new aesthetic as somewhat of “a parody of the original that we all recognise.” Owens interpretations of these ‘Gethsemane’ get-up’s are notably a million miles from the nerdy, cumbersome high tops that graced practically everyone’s adolescence – and we’re all the more grateful for it. Move over generation now.
Article: Charles Daniel McDonald
Photography / Media: Rik Owens